Showing posts with label 13e arrondissement. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 13e arrondissement. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Then and Now: Rue Nationale towards place Pinel, Paris

c. 1910-2009

Rue Nationale, like most streets which cross boulevard Vincent Auriol, exemplifies the extensive urban renewal that took place in Paris' 13th arrondissement in the 60s and 70s. Unfortunately, it has all the defining characteristics of modernist city planning while lacking much redeeming value elsewhere. Its apartment blocks are set back from the street behind plentiful yet inactive green spaces, themselves fenced or walled in from the sidewalk. There is no continuous street wall and very little retail presence, and the rather uninspiring architecture leaves most visual interest here to be provided by generous curbside parking.

Original photo: "LL-2097 Rés." Collection LL/Roger-Viollet. Parisenimages.fr. Parisienne de Photographie. 24 Jan. 2009. http://www.parisenimages.fr/Export450/9000/8466-5.jpg

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Les Olympiades, Paris

The Olympiades housing complex was built between 1968 and 1974 as the centerpiece of an ambitious urban renewal project that rebuilt much of Paris' 13th arrondissement. The best way of accessing the complex takes a set of steps off of rue Tolbiac in Paris' 13th arrondissement that at first glance does not seem to go anywhere in particular. At the top of the steps, the curious visitor is rewarded with one of Paris' most unique vistas.

(click to enlarge)

Despite the many times I've seen it, the view from the top never fails to be breathtaking. Regretfully, my photos can hardly capture the grandeur of the space, nor the impression of watching towers advance interminably into the distance. It feels much like walking into an outdated Utopian vision - a realized version of Le Corbusier's Radial City, for one.

Though Paris' Modernist planners had much of the 13th arrondissement as their playground, nowhere was their vision as completely realized as it was at the Olympiades project. It comprises multiple housing towers and an indoor shopping complex grouped together by a vast plaza which, in true Modernist fashion, is built roughly four stories above street level on an elevated platform to separate pedestrian activity from automobile circulation and delivery below. The towers are of uniform height, and each given names of former Olympics host cities (London, Tokyo, Helsinki, etc). The Asian-inspired roofs on the plaza's retail buildings also add an international touch. While I'm no fan of Modernist city planning, such a fervent expression of its idealism on a scale unseen in the United States is quite something to behold.

Somewhat unusually for a giant work of Modernist urban design, the complex has a lot going for it, and has endured its 30 years rather well. The crowded indoor shopping center and outdoor plaza are home to a cluster of well-patronized Southeast Asian immigrant businesses that attract a fairly steady stream of foot traffic through the plaza, even in the depths of winter. The plaza's retail spaces run along its main southern axis in a slightly asymmetrical, playful zigzag pattern that seems to entice visitors forward. Though I have yet to experience this, I have a feeling that its small courtyard spaces are rather agreeable in the warmer months.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Then and Now: Rue du Château des Rentiers towards rue de Tolbiac, Paris

19xx-2009

Like many streets of Paris' 13th arrondissement, the rue du Château des Rentiers was nearly entirely rebuilt in the 60s and 70s as part of a massive urban renewal effort.

Original photo: "Paris (13ème arr.). Rue Château des Rentiers." Collection Roger-Viollet. Parisenimages.fr. Parisienne de Photographie. 24 Jan. 2009. http://www.parisenimages.fr/Export450/1000/680-3.jpg

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Paris Rive Gauche

I have made several visits in the past week to Paris Rive Gauche, an area not to be confused with the older part of town traditionally referred to as the Left Bank. Rive Gauche is a massive urban redevelopment project occupying the 13th arrondissement along the banks of the Seine, in a former industrial zone cut off from the city by the railroad tracks of the Gare d'Austerlitz.

Having fallen largely into abandonment by the 1980s, the area became the focus of a large urban rewewal effort led by a semi-municipal authority called SEMAPA (Société d'économie mixte d'aménagement de Paris), which sought to reconnect the 13th arrondissement to its riverfront via the creation of an entirely new city neighborhood. The area is best known as the site of the Bibliothèque François Mitterrand, the gargantuan central branch of the national library system, opened in 1996.

Enormous and controversial as the library complex is, it is actually the other parts of the quarter that have been of particular interest to me. Upon descending from the seemingly endless wooden terrace of the library complex, one finds streets of a scale very similar to that of Paris' older neighborhoods, apart from their apparent grid layout.

Quite unlike the rest of Paris however, the vast majority of buildings in the area was built within the past decade, creating perhaps the highest concentration of contemporary architecture to be found in the city. A continuous work in progress, Rive Gauche has served as a playground for some of France's most reknown contemporary architects, working from an eclectic palette of styles.

Equally fascinating is the enormous diversity of uses to be found here. Rive Gauche is already home to classroom and administrative buildings of several universities, numerous residential buildings, commercial and government offices, and a large MK2 cinema complex. It's a great example of a truly mixed-use neighborhood that has come out of a comprehensive and well-executed plan on the part of SEMAPA.

Work continues on removing the physical barrier presented by the railroad tracks, which still separates Rive Gauche from older neighborhoods to the west. A portion of the tracks has already been built over, and more elevated buildings are currently under construction above them.

The development of Paris Rive Gauche should provide important insight and inspiration for planners working on Philadelphia's Delaware waterfront plan. The initial problem, reconnecting the postindustrial city to its river, is the same. Granted, I-95 and its interchanges present a much greater barrier than a set of railroad tracks. Nonetheless, there is clear proof that the creation of a successful city neighborhood can be done with the right public investment.

Most importantly, Rive Gauche owes its success to crucial parternships between planners, government and educational institutions, and private developers. Nearly all institutions, public and private, seek to expand or find new digs at one point or another. Just imagine the momentum that Philadelphia's waterfront plan would gain if one of its ever-growing universities, Penn, Drexel, or Temple, took a stake in waterfront property. This kind of development is nothing new to Philadelphia - Independence Mall was created by a similarly far-reaching enterprise that created Rohm and Haas' headquarters, the James A. Byrne federal courthouse, and US Mint building, among others.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Then and Now: Passage du Moulin-des-Prés, Paris

c. 1944-2009

Original photo: "RV-759748." 1944-1945. Collection Roger-Viollet. Parisenimages.fr. Parisienne de Photographie. 12 Jan. 2009. http://www.parisenimages.fr/Export450/2000/1427-3.jpg